In DOC We Trust

JANUARY 16/2011 . DAY #94 . 25 KM .

As i sit here in some grassy park along the shoreline north of Wellington, it's hard to believe that not too long ago Alex and I even began this journey. And now we only have 2 more days until we reach Wellington. Though it's been a journey of 3 months to get to this point, as I reflect back on our adventures it all seems like a blur.



The beach near Turakina

 Not too long ago - January 6 - Alex and I left Whanganui excited to be coming down the home stretch into Wellington. A certain amount of uncertainty hung in the hot muggy air as we trekked our way onwards to Turakina. It was yet another day of road walking of which we were presented with another few memorable moments of cars honking at us. Whether the honks were given out of annoyance, to cheer us on or mock us - we will never know. I was too busy trying to walk onwards while squinting through the sweat pouring down my face.

The following day Alex and I decided it was time to try getting up a little earlier (4:30am instead of 5am) in order to make more use of the cooler hours of the day. For our keen efforts the weather rewarded us with some dark clouds to follow our route and dump as much rain on us as possible. It quickly became apparent that both Alex and I were still traumatized over our last big bout of rain prior to Christmas. Our emotional composure immediately shut down as we dragged our feet down the street. One might have assumed we were doing time for as enthusiastic as we looked that morning. The entire time my brain was screaming for answers on how much rain we should be expecting. I needed to mentally prepare should we be looking at another week of solid rain.



A local's mailbox on route to Bulls

 Fortunately the clouds cleared by lunch and our spirits slowly lifted. Onwards we walked - through Bulls and eventually Fielding. It was during our leg of road endurance to reach Fielding that it happened. My faith in Te Araroa Trail began to falter.

The route from Bulls to Fielding was as straightforward as they come. The road was straight. Flat even. We knew exactly where we needed to go and how to get there. But then everything changed. AS we came out of Bulls we noticed a Te Araroa sign directing us off the quiet side road onto some farmland. As we had clocked quite a few KM on road the previous few days we decided we might as well do a trial to mix it up a little. And so we followed the seemingly trustworthy Te Araroa sign.

Only a few minutes walk along the trail and I began to note that the trail wasn't even heading inthe direction of Fielding (south). It was going East out to the river. I just hoped it would be pretty enough to make it worth it.

It wasn't. Okay - that's not ENTIRELY true as the river appeared to be quite beautiful. But most of my energy was spent trying to figure out where we were supposed to be going. Countless farm track criss-crossed every which way with barely any indication of the route Te Araroa wanted us to go.



Camping in a Pine forest

 Eventually we managed to figure it out and continued along the riverside trail (still leading AWAY from Fielding) at which point we came to an electric fence we had to delicately step over in order to avoid a shock to certain sensitive areas exposed while straddling a fenceline.

Disaster averted, Te Araroa then proceeded to lead us straight up the side of the river bank that was so steep, scrambling skills were needed (what's a lovely river walk without a little cliff climbing involved?). Once on top of the river bank we managed to succeed in making some distance (about 5 metres) before the entire trail just disappeared. Literally.

Here we are on the river's edge where the water is a good 30ft below and the entire trail has completely detached form the edge of land mass and has joined with the river bed. The trail that was is no more. And Alex and I had nowhere to go. We were fenced in - literally. In a rebellious attempt to continue onwards, we refused the option of backtracking the way we came. And so - as has become the way of Te Araroa - we had no choice but to climb the farmer's fence. A lovely barbed wire one.

Over our packs went and then in a delicate show of balance, patience and experience (this wasn't our first time), we each made it over the fence. Only to be faced with the next one. Electric. We slide our packs under the buzzing wire and followed suit on our bellies, avoiding the wire above. Once we were clear of the fence and dusted off our clothes, we strapped on our packs only to turn around and have to face the field of bulls we were now in. Only slightly ironic that we were now between Bulls and Fielding. Thank you Te Araroa.

Fortunately nothing came of the bulls as they were all still dazed and confused at watching us strange creatures master the security system that traps them in everyday. That being said, by the time Alex and I managed to find our way back to the road we discovered we had wasted nearly 1.5hrs of our time to maybe avoid 30min of road walking. But hey - at least we got the thrill of nearly dying (again) to remember. 

And so I suppose the moral of the story (or at least this chapter) is that Te Araroa Trail is not exactly what I expected it to be. I suppose that most of that can be attributed to the fact that it hasn't officially opened yet - but the question of IF it will ever be ready remains in my mind.

I have huge respect for Te Araroa Trust and all the volunteers that have given their time, money and energy to developing this new long distance trail. It is a mammoth project to take on and I can't say I blame it for taking the years that it has to become this developed thusfar. BUT - that is the magic word here - in trekking this trail to the point I have, it leaves me to question if there will ever be a day when the trail is completely up-to-date. Or if there will be a day that it has been even maintained. I have lost track of the number of times that the Te Araroa Trust website notes and the actual trail do not match up. I can't remember how many hours have been wasted when the Te Araroa Trail signs have been misleading, causing us to backtrack and reroute. My brain fights to forget the numerous near serious injury and/or death moments in which my life flashes before my eyes all because no one has bothered to check that the trail section is still safe to walk. Not to mention the countless times I wish we had a helicopter on standby because the trail section has become near unwalkable due to no one maintaining it in the last couple of years.

Sure - Te Araroa Trail is not built for the average day trekker. It's not designed to be easy. And I'm all for adventure and pushing myself to the limit, but there comes a point when I sometimes do wonder why I'm following a trail that causes me to trek multiple days on the road only to be led to farmland on a trail that is so difficult to navigate that essentially it's not even there.

And so - with that all in mind - I have titled this entry as such because it's true. Any portion of the Te Araroa Trail we've come across that is built, maintained and/or otherwise by DOC has been incredibly reliable in comparison to our expectations. If they say it will take 5hrs - it takes 5hrs. Not 8. Not 2. if they say it's tough terrain - I can expect to break a good sweat. If they say the area is hazardous due to slips, unmaintained sections and otherwise - I am grateful to know what to look out for.

And maybe the only difference in all of this is that Te Araroa Trail is not finished. Maybe the issues Alex and I have come across will subside over time as improvements are made. Who knows. All I know is that Alex and I have survived thusfar and are a mere 2 days from Wellington and it feels pretty awesome.


TOTAL = 1732 KM